by Derrick Wachaya

For years, Western clothes donation has been a common practice. Many well-meaning people donate their gently used clothes to those in need in Africa and the rest of the world. However, this practice has had unintended consequences that are contributing to environmental pollution and climate change over the years. Is it safe to ask the question, are Western clothes donations too much for Africans to handle?

In the past, African communities were able to use donated clothes to supplement their own clothing needs. Though, the sheer volume of clothing donations has now overwhelmed the continent's textile industry, creating a situation where local textile production is virtually non-existent. The problem is that many of these donated clothes are low-quality, low-cost items that cannot be sold in Western markets. Instead of being thrown away these clothes are shipped off to Africa, and other continents such as Asia, where they are sold in second-hand clothing markets. This has created a situation where African textile manufacturers cannot compete with the low prices of second-hand clothes. As a result, many local businesses have gone bankrupt.

Furthermore, the sheer volume of clothes being donated also contributes to environmental pollution and climate change. The 2022 Greenpeace Report, dubbed Poisoned Gifts, concentrating on East Africa’s clothes donation, states that the fashion industry's linear business model fails to account for the severe environmental, health, and economic consequences (e.g., the overflowing landfills and waste clothing in countries like Kenya and Tanzania). Much of the discarded clothing is made of plastic, which does not easily decompose and often contains harmful chemicals that pose a long-term problem for cleanup efforts. Historical instances of water pollution in rivers around the globe have demonstrated the significant challenges—technical, economic, and political—involved in cleaning up hazardous chemicals after they are released. The costs of restoration programs have continued to be exorbitant and complete decontamination seems to be impossible especially in Africa, where the pollution is high.

Moreover, the textile industry is a significant contributor to environmental pollution. The production of clothes requires vast amounts of water and energy, as well as the use of harmful chemicals. The disposal of clothes also contributes to environmental pollution, as synthetic materials do not decompose easily and can release toxic chemicals into the soil. The OR Foundation, a non-governmental organization (NGO) from the United States, reports that approximately 15 million pieces of used clothing are imported into Ghana on a weekly basis. Although, nearly 40 percent are ultimately discarded due to their low quality. As there is no practical use for these rejected garments, they often end up in landfills, eventually finding their way into the ocean.

Rather than sending old clothes to Africa, the focus should be on supporting local textile manufacturers and businesses. This could potentially involve donating money to organizations that support African textile production or buying African-made clothing. Similarly, some African organizations are stepping up to create sustainable solutions for this environmental menace. Hailing from Accra Ghana, Fenz Fashion Limited uses textile waste to create artwork to minimize environmental pollution by exhibiting its fashion to local and foreign markets.

Additionally, the West can reduce their own clothing waste by buying higher quality, long-lasting clothes and only donating items that are in good condition. Likewise, they can also reduce their impact on the environment by choosing clothes made from sustainable materials, and avoiding synthetic fabrics that end up polluting the African continent. It is time to re-examine the impact of the practice of donating Western clothes to Africa and continue to find ways to promote sustainable economic development.